got a little problem here

[old skool]

i need to replace my exhaust bolt on my rear jug because it is stripping.

how do i extract it from the head and how do i put a new one it with the assurance that i wont jack up my head, do i need a special tool? or can i do this myself? is it hard?

[Black-is-Back]

Exhaust flange bolt? If so, can you get two nuts to lock together on the stud and then try to get her out? Maybe put some heat to it before you try?

[old skool]

yes the exhaust flange bolt. its not broke off so i can take it out whatever the regular way to take them out is, i just need to know what that is and how to put in a new one

[OnegoodHorse]

it's an interference thread into the head, so use some pb blaster to clean the oxidation off the threads before you do it, give it a few hours to soak in. Then as was said, put two nuts on there and tighten them together, then use the inside one to turn it out. If it comes out hard, then use the 1/2 turn out, 1/4 turn in, 1/2 turn out method, just be careful and dont force it too hard or it will break, then you have to drill it out, and that is never fun.

[old skool]

thanks horse, is it as simple as screwin in the new one (to torque spec) or is there something special

[Graywolf]

I have welded the nuts to a stud to get it out. A little heat sometimes helps too, but not too much heat or you weaken the stud and it starts to twist. The heat will work pretty well on a steel stud in an aluminum head because of the different expansion ratios of the metals. Putting some pressure on the stud and tapping the end of it at the same time might help get it broke loose.

[shovelhead73]

Hey Old School, just screw th enew on ein until it stops,or runs out od threads. I believe you will have fine threads on the pipe flange and course threads on the head side. You might want to use double nuts to go bak with the new one one also. It will make it easier to thread back in. Later

[old skool]

so now i have a new dilema, i took the exhausts off today and just tried threding the nut on the bolt without the pipe on there, once it got passed a small striped spot on the stud it went right on.

this is my thought, should i just put the exhaust back on (i'm repainting them so after that) and try to push threw the striped spot or should i risk or tryin to remove the stud myself?

[UltraFlame]

You should probably consider removing the stud if you plan on possibly putting the pipes on and off again in the future. Just seems like if you temp fate you may not have a clear shot to the stud the next time if the nut strips when you are torking it.

[103 herritage]

looks like you got the info you were looking for. patience grasshopper when working on it

[DeuceDog]

They say that timing is everything. I've been riding for the last two months with the lower stud on my rear jug stripped as well. Somehow I was able to get it snugged down enough with just one nut that it doesn't suck air. Just been waiting for winter to fix it.

One question to add to old skools question. Is the stud a righty or a lefty?
I don't want to be wrenching on it and actually be tightening it rather than loosening it.

thanks guys!

[DaFish]

They say that timing is everything. I've been riding for the last two months with the lower stud on my rear jug stripped as well. Somehow I was able to get it snugged down enough with just one nut that it doesn't suck air. Just been waiting for winter to fix it.

One question to add to old skools question. Is the stud a righty or a lefty?
I don't want to be wrenching on it and actually be tightening it rather than loosening it.

thanks guys!

It's a right hand thread.

Let us know how you make out.

DaFish

[old skool]

tried gettin it out tonight, i used the pj penitrating stuff (or something like that) no go :( i tried the jam nut thing and there isn't enough thread to get two nuts on :(

my next thought is a stud extractor, anyone have any luck with these? any other ideas?

here is a link to the stud extractor....... http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P?mv=rr

[The Dog]

tried gettin it out tonight, i used the pj penitrating stuff (or something like that) no go :( i tried the jam nut thing and there isn't enough thread to get two nuts on :(

my next thought is a stud extractor, anyone have any luck with these? any other ideas?

here is a link to the stud extractor....... http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P?mv=rr

Hey skool , do anything you can before you go to the screw extractor. I am a toolmaker and this stuff is my specialty. You got great info so far. I would use WD-40 if you guys use that stuff down there. Get the best penetrator (liqiud) and let it soak in and use it as you are turning. I think Fish is right , it is a regular right handed screw and one side is usually finer thread than the other. If you can't use nuts or jam nuts (two together) and tighten against each other and then turn the pair outward , if this can't be done cause of no threads then the stud is screwed no matter what you try so go ahead and weld a good size nut onto is and then use a LONG wrench to wrench it out. The worse that can happen is it will snap. If it does , its where you are right now. And when you wrench it out , try to shock it , force the wrench and then hit the wrench with a hammer as you apply the heat and penetrating oil. The shock should break it free. If it doesn't the force of a long handled wrench should do it , or it will snap. If it snaps then grind or file flat the face of the bolt and drill it , ON CENTRE , and drill the size that the extractor will grab good , then hit extractor with a hammer and it should shock and lock extractor into place and then again with heat and penetrator , turn outward. Use a good quality extractor , a cheap one is useless. But try not to get to the extractor stage , shock it and leverage it and heat it and penetrate it. The new one , clean hole and turn in tight. If the whole thing wants to come out again , you can damage one thread just before it gets tight so the damaged thread is your lock so the stud will stay in. If all else fails take into an Indy , they will get it out , won't cost much.

[TravellingMatt]

Sounds like you've got some fun ahead there skool. This forum has some great people on it with good info. Let us know how it turns out. Best of luck to yer.

[ryno18000]

Hey Chris. Are you trying two regular nuts? They sell thin nuts at the hardware store. This will let you get two nuts on the thread. Also, I have one of those stud pullers. If you can't get two nuts on the thread, you probably won't be able to get the stud puller on there either.

Ryno

[old skool]

went to ace today and got the two small nuts yr talkin about, it was a no go :( i just don't have enough guts on the stud :( i broke down and talked with my local indy and told him i think i was in over my head and i needed a quote. i wanted to try everything poss. that wasn't perminent (like welding a nut on the bolt) so worse case scinario i could give it to them and they wouldn't have to drill my head. anyway he said at most it would be done in 2 hrs so here is the plan......a bud of mine has what he says is like a die set only its ment for rethreading studs so you can get two nuts on it. i'm gettin that friday night and i'll try it either then or sat. if that is a no go its on the trailer with my defeated arse and over to Venom.

[The Dog]

Chris , the bolt that is stripped would need to be a fairly close size to get a die on it and cut new threads. Now the problem is the part that you want to put the nuts onto is smaller diameter than the stuck part and therefore may snap easier . Welding it is still a better idea as the threads are screwed anyway , and like I said if you put lots of force on a really long wrench for leverage and then cracked it with a hammer for shock there is a good chance it will come loose. And if it snaps then you have done all you could do and its time for the trailer.

[old skool]

i hear what yr sayin dog, but.......... i don't have room for leverage, the engine is still in the frame, also i don't wanna rap on it with a hammer since i have alluminum jugs, i have tapped on them with a hammer but thats all i dare do. and last, if it breaks off i'm lookin at payin for 6-8 hrs of service rather than 2 max; for me it just makes sence to try these last few efforts but leave the stud in tacked (even if it doesn't have the threads) so the pros can have something to bite and i don't have to bite a huge service bill

[The Dog]

Fair enough , true there is not much room so best to take it in. We can't do it all man , sometimes we have to give in. And if you do , try to find out how they exactly removed it cause if it doesn't come out by welding something to it and get a monster bar on it , I can't think of how else they would do it. I think they will just knock the stud off and drill it out. See if you drill it with a small hole but be very close to centre , then they drill a sizeable hole that they put the extractor in and it bites into the hole and turns backwards to bring it out , and the trick is to drill it a certain size so when you put the extractor in there is enough meat left to bite in real good so it can turn out , but the hole itself is large enough that the wall of the screw that is left inside the head is weak enough that the extractor can back out without too much resistance from the weak material left in there. Its not something you want to do without some previous experience , so just take it in , and you'll be happy when they give it back to you with no damage to the head and with a brand new stud. But try to find out what they did and post it for us.

[old skool]

i will ask him dog, my indy is a real cool guy he is always telling me how to do stuff because he know i like to work on my own scoot. he has enough people that just want to drop their scoot off and then he always has me for when i get in over my head and have to trail the bike to him LOL

[tjv63075]

Put a set of vice grips on it. Just replace the stud when you are done.

[fxdwg1998]

with all that advise all i can add is good luck let us know how it turns out

[ChiliMon]

Better to take her to the indy Chris, look how much you saved already over the years and how much you'll save on her now by not breaking the stud off. 2 hours is a lot cheaper than 6 or 8.

[old skool]

my thoughts exactly chilimon

[nwctdyna]

one trick i've had some success with is heating the stud and head carefully and then very carefully spraying a coolant onto the stud. Pleas remember you don't need to get this stuff cherry red. I have used wd40 for this but not sure if it is flammable now and have an extinguisher out if any flame is open. JMHO but have done this. Cooling the stud will cause it to contract (shrink) it so the key is cool the stud alone if you can

[shovelhead73]

One more thing here. If you (they) have to drill that stud, you better make damn sure that bit is in the exact center on that hardened stud. If you get off center by .0001 that drill bit will go to the weakest point of that stud and right into that soft aluminum head. I have seen it happen too many times. I usually didn't get to see it until after the damage. That stud is not very big dia., and if it requires drilling, there is no way in hell anyone can drill that stud without pulling the head. I think it will come out using a good pair of vise grips and ping it with a ball peen hammer on the end of the stud. Good luck Chris.

[old skool]

well i have been defeated, one thing i am trying to learn is that sometimes stoping is the best idea a guy can have, i still feel like i have been beat.

i recently met a guy and found out he works as a harley tech, he came over today, we compleatly destroyed the threads (tried the jam nut thing again then we tried doing course thread and forceing it :() after that he said we had to drill the head, we drilled in and screwed in a snap on "easy out" stud extractor, it was one turn away from being all the way in and the head snaped off the tool :( this thing is stuck. i'm PO'ed i deffenetly went beyond my comfort zone when it comes to workin on my scoot. tommorow i call my local indy (no wonder this guy loves me lol) and i tell him a stud has kicked my butt and i need his help, hopfully he will be able to come up with a trailer because i don't have one and i don't even have bars to push it (not that i actuly would its a couple miles away, i just wanted to throw in the fact i don't have bars still). someday i will ride again :)

i got finals commin up in school and as much as i don't want my scoot to take a backburnner i have resposibilities that need to be met first,

[103 herritage]

hang in there chris, nuttin but a thang. Someday you will look back and laugh at this. No its not fun now,, but could be worse, concentrate on the priorities ya got goin on.. :) keep smilin

[Graywolf]

You really got a problem now. Easy out broke off in the stud is way harder than the stud was and almost impossible to drill out. I broke an easy out off in a tractor wheel that had sheared all the lug studs once. Ended up cutting it out with a torch, but the lug studs on the tractor wheel went all the way through. Can't do that in a blind hole.

If all else fails, you can always drill and tap to the next larger size and use a reducer stud. Just about anything can be fixed, one way or another! Good luck with it!

[TravellingMatt]

...still got the option of welding on a nut. Nils carborundum

[shovelhead73]

I hate to say it, but I think the very best way to get that outta there is to remove the head from the bike,set it up ,clamp it down, then try to remove the easy out. Then drill the bolt out and re tap the threads.It's a pretty delicate operation when you are dealing with hardened steel and aluminum.

[OnegoodHorse]

man, I'm sorry you gotta go through this bud, I really wish I would have seen this before you tried an easy out, I could have told you it wouldnt work. Easy outs never work on those studs. Your best bet now is to take it to a pro who has the equipment to machine it out.

[old skool]

ok so i know i said i'm giving up but i just can't, i feel guilty spending all that $$ on my scoot soooooooooooooooooooooo

i called MATCO tools today and ordered a stud puller, everyone on another forum i belong to says this is the tool to beat all tools, it has rollers on the inside that grab the stud, i should have it on friday if its in stock here is a pic of it

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/kilroykarr/DSC00276.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/kilroykarr/DSC00273.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/kilroykarr/DSC00275.jpg[/

[shovelhead73]

Not sure which stud it is, but you might want to make sure you have enough clearence to get that thing in there.

[old skool]

didn't even think of that :( i'll check, thanks

[maddog55]

THAT sucks! I wish I would have seen this post earlier too.

There's a process available involving a laser that can remove the easy-out.
I forget what they call it. It aint cheap either. Plan on about $100+ to get
it removed.

What you should have done is this:

a. Welded a nut to the stud and let it cool completely.
b. Heated the Aluminum around the stud with an oxy-acetylene rig (not the
stud itself) while working it out with a socket.

Good luck. It may be cheaper to get another head from ebay and bolt it on there.

2 cents..

[old skool]

i got it out about a 2 weeks ago, i didn't have a TIG or a gas mig so i took it to the indy and they had it out in no time, problem solved, pipes back on and life is good :)

[djl]

ok so i know i said i'm giving up but i just can't, i feel guilty spending all that $$ on my scoot soooooooooooooooooooooo

i called MATCO tools today and ordered a stud puller, everyone on another forum i belong to says this is the tool to beat all tools, it has rollers on the inside that grab the stud, i should have it on friday if its in stock here is a pic of it[/

Skool,
It would help everyone if you could post a photo of the current condition of the stud/head. If you had let us know that you were planning to use an EZ-Out, you would have been warned of the outcome. Without seeing the current condition of the stud/head, I don't think any of us can give good advice. But, on the surface, it sounds like you could easily spend more to R/R the stud than a set of heads would cost. Even if you get the stud out, the head will have to be handed over to a machinist to drill and tap the hole for a reducer stud per a previous suggestion. Talk to your indy, maybe he can help find a set cheap; look on Ebay.

[old skool]

hey dj look at the post right above you :)

[djl]

hey dj look at the post right above you :)

skool,
my bad, missed that post. Glad to hear all is well again; you sounded whipped.

[old skool]

skool,
my bad, missed that post. Glad to hear all is well again; you sounded whipped.

yeah i got my butt kicked on that one :) i'm saving for a TIG so next time i will be able to do it:coolio: